Mt Hood - Nov 24th 2013

The first time I went to mount Hood was during a summer camp with the Vancouver Ski Team. I was in 2nd year K2 but i was able to snag a spot with the FIS team for the week camp. It was also my future coach Andrew's first trip as head VST coach. We were cruising down the I-5 when we the van started making some weird noises. He pulled over at a mechanics and found out the drive shaft was on about to come apart. As I remember, if we drove any further it would have broke, hit the pavement and javelined the van off the road... maybe that was an exaggeration, but the older kids in the van were very convincing. We rented a suburban and either Andrew or Sean shuttled us and the gear to government camp while the other dealt with the van. I never understood what these guys went through taking care of us until I started coaching years later... thanks guys. The next morning we woke up very early, went for a run, breakfast, packed the suburban and up the road to timberline. Seeing that mountain was unreal, and then spending a week on palmer skiing in august was a dream. I remember the early mornings riding the chairs up to the cat track with the smell of sulphur all around. Then after skiing heading back to government camp and getting a huck shake, lounging around in the heat and if we were lucky having a nap for dryland. I went back for several summers and whenever I was there I would just stare at the summit and think about standing on the top.    

11 years or so later, after a brutal week of midterms, school work and perfect freeze thaw conditions on the mountain I went for the summit. With my friend Dylan we started skinning up the south side at 8 am and made quick time to the top of palmer. Then finally I moved above the upper lift station towards the crater. Past illumination rock, crater rock, the kitchen to the hogs back. Switched over to crampons and headed up the old chute. We made the summit at 1 pm and hungout in the sun waiting for the snow to soften up a bit. Then I dropped in on the 40 deg old chute for some of the best corn snow i've ever skied (specially in november haha). We shredded all the way to illumination rock on west side of crater rock. Then continued down the zig zag glacier before traversing back into the ski area and to the car for a beer. It was a pretty cool experience and I can't wait to head back up there.  

only iphone pics, I didn't feel like bringing my SLR

hanging out at the bergschrund 

looking down at timberline and the palmer snowfield where I used to ski

summit ridge

haha summit pose... sorry

dylan making turns down to illumination rock

The Milk Road - sept 20

Eric and I hauled ourselves up the tantalus wall on the chief today. We did the milk road which goes at 10d a0. It was a great climb with awesome positions.
Pitch 1- mellow climbing with a bolt ladder to the belay 5.8 a0
Pitch 2 - up a fun flake to a traverse and down climb. Then back up the main corner system 10c a0
Pitch 3-4 - money pitches!! In a long corner system finger laybacking for what seemed like forever. Eric got 3 and styled it up with his best effort - 10b. I led 4 and it was a 40 m pump fest which I managed to onsight. Unrelenting laybacking in a thin fingers crack with rests every once in awhile. No move was to hard but the length and maintained style made for one of my proudest leads yet -10d.
Pitch 5- wideness to a cool dyke feature then transferring to a different corner system 10b.
Pitch 6- romping up the dirty crescent ramp 5.8.
Pitch 7- gawd dern chimney nearly got me! Cool moves to a face crack into a finger traverse and another face crack 10a.
Pitch 8- traversing on an exposed dyke feature. Cool moves on bolts pulling up to belly good ledge 10c.

Such an awesome climb!

BC d'eh long weekend

For the long weekend Dani and I went to Bowen. We packed light and left on the 8 for an overnight. We rented kayaks when we got there for a couple of hours and tooled up to hood point. Early calm waters allowed us to tan and swim way out in the sound. Once we got back to the shop there was a ton of people heading out so we were pretty stoked on missing the crowds and choppy water.

We then picked up some beer and headed to sandy beach for more sun. after a few hours we continued our way up to mt Gardner. The nine km hike from the cove to the helipads felt long after a full day in the sun. It only took us a few hours though and we made it in time to make dinner and hang before the sunset. We set up camp on the pad, played some cards and took in the view. The sunrise woke us up and it was pretty unbelievable.

Once we packed up we headed down and got some breakfast at the snug. Then we caught the 12:30 back to HB. Pretty awesome being out in the sound on a beautiful bc day.

Surfing April 28 and may 6

Getting back into surfing! With some friends from class we headed out at 4:30 am for the coast on April 28. The forecast was heavy surf with the wind picking up during the day. It was pretty washed out in the inner break but getting out to the line up, though difficult, was worth it. Some decent overhead waves were the reward. I was feeling alittle hung over from going out the night before so I actually got sea sick. That's a first. It was overcast and not very busy but we got some great waves.

Today I went to Indian beach again with Brandon. We did the dawn patrol again and were the only surfers for awhile with decent mid waist to chest waves. Around 9 it started getting busy just as the tide went in and some huge rollers started coming in. It was way cleaner today and it took was less effort to get past the break. It was a really nice day and i stayed till 12. I started to get my surf chops back and I can't wait to get back!

   

Smith Rock April 13-15

Dave and Riley came down for a roadtrip to smith rock. We headed out friday at 12 and after a few wrong turns ended up on the back road to Mt hood. We set up camp and drank some beers as it started to rain. A quick tarp set up let us hang out and play some cards. The next day riley headed out to mt Bachelor to snowboard and dave and I made breakfast before heading to the crags. We did some climbs and tried to beat the heat and crowds by heading over asterix pass. We then hiked over past the monkey face to the misery ridge trail and back to the main area. Back at the campground we enjoyed some fine american beer and a 3 dollar bottle of wine and hung out! An early wake up sunday was in order since dave and riley had to get back to van to work. Lots of fun.

Spring Break March 24- April 9

Back up the I-5 as soon as 2nd quarter exams were over and I began a memorable two week break. I managed to go climbing with Eric in squamish and we go on some new routes on lumberland in the bluffs. We then moved down to hit up some classics on neat and cool and penny lane. Great day in the sun!

The next day I picked Eric up in squamish and we drove to whistler. The weather was looking good but the forecast called for some weather moving in. We headed up to the showcase tbar and waited for it to open before heading into the blackcomb backcountry. The plan was to see how far we could get on the spearhead. We made great time and ended up at tremor pretty early. The weather started to move in though and we decided to bail and follow our skin tracks and way points back in the increasing whiteout. First we had to ski the north face of tremor, so much vertigo! We made our way back and skied out through the body bag bowl. Pretty awesome day with lots of hiking and some sweet lines as well.

Dani and I went up blackcomb a couple of days later and got an unexpected powder day which was pretty awesome. We lapped lakeside bowl and found some great snow.


The weather was kind of on and off during the break but close to the last weekend the weather improved. I headed up with Dani to whis and did some solo freeskiing since she had to do whistler cup stuff. I lapped flute a couple of times and found some good snow.

The next day I met a guy on the showcase tbar and headed up the blackcomb glacier to ski the poop chutes. The only problem is you have to do the stairmaster bootpack first. Once at the top we found some good turns back to the blackcomb glacier. I then met up with riley and found some awesome glade runs.

After a good night out with all the coaches I met up with Eric again and we headed out on the musical bumps to Fissle. We made awesome time and before no time we were on the top of fissile looking down Saddle Chute. Dropping in did not disappoint, It was probably one of the best runs I have ever done. Sweet deep powder on a 55 degree face. Then the slog back to cowboy ridge. By the time we got back to the village it wasn't even 2 and I was wiped from the pace! On sunday i did some groomers and said byeeee to everyone before heading back to portland. Awesome break!

Exam Week Study Break

View From Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Provincial Park

Cobalt Lake Spire, Bugaboo Provincial Park