Mount Rainier May 8-10

Unplanned, last minute trips absolutely rule. Eric and I went down to Mount Rainier on a whim with a high pressure system fueling us. After a quick drive and a comfy car bivy we set out monday morning up to Camp Muir (3000 m). The ski up the Muir snowfield took just over 3 hours and we baked in the sun the whole way.

Heading up onto the Muir snowfield

On the way up I saw a size 2ish avalanche caused by a serac peeling off on the Nisqually icefall, which was pretty intense. When we go up top we sat in the sun for several hours before hitting the sack at around 7 pm.

With a hut full over other hopeful climbers we were nice and cozy and wide awake by 1 am for our alpine start. Eric and I were first to set out at around 2:30 and were welcomed by gale force winds. We headed up the Cowlitz glacier towards the common Ingraham direct route. Once we reached the a steep headwall on the Ingraham Glacier we decided to turn back due to the avy conditions. There was alot of snow movement overnight due to the strong wind and we were worried that the slope would be wind loaded.

Heading back we ran into 3 parties behind us, one of which turning around as well. After that we snapped some pictures, packed up, skied 2000 vertical meters down the Muir snowfield and headed back home. We had a great time and look forward to trying again in the summer when avy conditions won't be a factor.  

Park Gates

What a Fox!

Eric getting ready for bed

To amped for sleep

Eric looking down the Cowlitz Glacier

Muir Peak with Mount Adams in the distance

Muir Peak

Camp Muir

Smith Rock May 1-5

With work and school finally behind us, Dani and I headed down to Smith Rock for a sweet spring road trip. We left on Sunday may 1st and headed down the 1-5 to Portland to check out my new town. We found a trendy street with a commercial meets 4th kinda feel and checked out some stores before heading to see my new school. Western states has a cool campus but its really small and sandwiched in between highway 84 and a suburb reminiscent of surrey (shudder). Though the highway is really noisy it does give a quick escape to central Oregon! On the way to Smith we stopped at gov't camp by Mt Hood for some old fashion huckleberry shakes that are still $5 and taste exactly the same as when we ski raced (very exciting).

We got to the campsite right before dark and set up camp while checking out the sunset over the smith rock group. The campsite btw is so pro. They have showers and a bathroom and its only $5 a night! There is a sweet fake bouldering rock, slack line and lots of room to cook and hang out.

The nights were cold and usually windy but the days were hot and we got sweet calf burns to prove it. The gorge that skirts the cliffs is pretty outstanding and there are so many birds and other animals all around. 

The rock is so different from the granite in squamish and it took alittle while to get used to. On the 2nd day we went to Bend to check it out before stopping at the massive walmart for some $2 bottles of wine and a stick clip to make our lives easier. 

We rocked most of the 5.6 -5.9's in the frontside area and I even lead a couple of 5.10's! I have a huge ticklist of climbs I want to do next time I go back, but this trip was awesome to get a good feel for things. The coolest part of the trip was doing Dani's first multipitch in the dihedrals. We started off with a short 5.9 called Ancylostoma and then the longer second pitch of bunny face (5.7). She handled the exposure like a pro. My favorite climb was probably 5 gal buckets (the route on the left in the pic on the right). It wasn't hard just lots of awesome hand holds. On the last night we went to the Terrebonne depot for some food and had a really good Ahi Poke and some monkey face porter beer. I also have taken a liking to the Deschutes brewery from Bend, and with six packs from six bucks you cant go wrong!

 

Dani wants to send chain reaction!

morning glory wall

walking back to the campsite

smith rock group with hood peeking through :)

checking out moonlight dihedral... next time

beating the heat at the dihedrals

cool picture... not us!

getting ready to climb the cinnamon slab

last look before heading home

On the drive home Dani got some cool shots of the beautiful weather before we headed into the rainstorm of the PNW. It was a miserable drive home in the rain but we broke it up with an awesome REI exploration somewhere near seattle, which was fun. Now that we're home I wish we didn't leave since its raining here and squamish is still wet!! Oh well it was an awesome trip, and there are more adventures to come soon... next stop Phyllis Engine.