Bugaboos: August 3-8

BC's alpine granite playground!! Eric and I went to the Bugaboos for the first time and it was unreal. After a crazy breakfast at the big bend cafe in golden we drove the 40 km fsr into bugaboo provincial park.

Once at the parking lot you have to cover your car in chicken wire so the porcupines don't eat up your rubber. Then you have to psyche yourself up for the huge hike up to the alpine.

Cresent Spire on the right, Bugaboo on the left

The hike rises up from the valley to the Applebee dome campground, which is at the center of all the action. From Applebee it is a short hike to most of the spires and its a great hangout spot. I found some friends from Squamish once we arrived and made some plans to climb Lions way on cresent the next day.

View from the tent

On Lions Way with Eric and James

Running from the storm

On the second day we went for the 7:30 am departure and headed up the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col towards the Bugaboo Spire. Our plan was to climb the Kain route in order to check out the descent for the Northeast ridge of Bugaboo.

We made it to within two pitches from the top when some dark clouds starting moving in. Stuck behind a slow party we decided to bail in case the weather didn't improve and an infamous Bugaboo thunderstorm started.

The south summit

The strom didn't materialize by the time we reached the b-s col so we decided to head up snowpatch spire on the buckingham route. This cool route went up to the lower summit with nothing harder than 5.8, with a great position on top! By the time we rapped and hiked back to applebee we had been gone for 13 hours and were pretty wiped. Some stove problems ensued and we learned how important it is to be good at fixing your stove in the backcountry. Eventually we got it working and made a well deserved dinner. 

On top of Snowpatch Spire

The next morning we were pretty tired so we slept in and left camp around 12 towards Pigeon spire. We went to climb the west ridge on pigeon which is said to be the best 5.4 in the world. After and long hike from applebee through the b-s col and across the vowell glacier we made it to Pigeon. Though it is impressive in its own right the Howsers dominate the skyline.

The Howsers!

hiking across the Vowell with Pigeon in the back

Looking back at the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col, where we came from

Ridge walking on pigeon, The howsers to the right

Looking down from the summit!

After making it to the top we worked our way back to camp and hung out with some friends on the couch around the "campfire". We built up a couch out of rocks on the edge of applebee dome so that we could have a sweet view east down the valley. Then James took out his lantern to give a campfire effect. Eric and I also planned out our attempt of the Northeast ridge for the next morning.

Northeast ridge of the Bugaboo Spire.

We got up around three am and started the walk towards the bugaboo spire in the dark. After 45 min we arrived at the start of the climb in the dark and looked for the first moves off the ground. Once the sun rose we had more luck and started up towards the Bugaboo-Cresent col. Apon arriving we weighed out our options and decided to bail as it didn't feel rigtht.

Once back at camp we packed up and headed home after a great trip in the mountains. When we got back to my car we were relieved that no rodent damage had occured but I noticed that the logging road did destroy my tailpipe on the drive up. Hopefully I can get back to the bugaboos next summer, since it rules!