Thursday, September 20, 2012

The Milk Road - sept 20

Eric and I hauled ourselves up the tantalus wall on the chief today. We did the milk road which goes at 10d a0. It was a great climb with awesome positions.
Pitch 1- mellow climbing with a bolt ladder to the belay 5.8 a0
Pitch 2 - up a fun flake to a traverse and down climb. Then back up the main corner system 10c a0
Pitch 3-4 - money pitches!! In a long corner system finger laybacking for what seemed like forever. Eric got 3 and styled it up with his best effort - 10b. I led 4 and it was a 40 m pump fest which I managed to onsight. Unrelenting laybacking in a thin fingers crack with rests every once in awhile. No move was to hard but the length and maintained style made for one of my proudest leads yet -10d.
Pitch 5- wideness to a cool dyke feature then transferring to a different corner system 10b.
Pitch 6- romping up the dirty crescent ramp 5.8.
Pitch 7- gawd dern chimney nearly got me! Cool moves to a face crack into a finger traverse and another face crack 10a.
Pitch 8- traversing on an exposed dyke feature. Cool moves on bolts pulling up to belly good ledge 10c.

Such an awesome climb!