Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Angels Crest: Aug 30th

The conditions are perfect... for Angels Crest!! Ahhh yeah its business time.
Eric and I headed out to the north walls for some fun on a Squamish classic. Its a long committing route that can take all day if you get stuck behind someone is slow, or its still wet. But like I said the conditions are perfect. We got up it in just under 5 hours with no problems and finally found out how awesome it is. We started off with the 5.7 tree climb to skip the first two dirty pitches on route to the angel crack. Once up we swapped pitches most of the way and cruised to the top. Partway up we found the raven totem pole left by squamish local matt mandolini, which depicts the story of how the raven stole the sun. Then we crossed the acrophobes which had a very alpine feel with their long knife edge ridges. Near the top we I led a killer 10a hand crack with awesome exposure. Then Eric cruised up the last chimney to the top. Can't wait to get back on it!

Eric following the 2nd last pitch, nice airtime bro!
What a view!
High plains drifter is over there
The route follows the ridge line the whole way. The coolest part was the acrophobes in the middle.
My eyes! the goggles... they do nothing!
HOW RAVEN STOLE THE SUN
Once upon a time, a mean old chief hoarded the only light in the world. He did not want to share it. Raven decided that he could no longer tolerate this after growing tired of flying in the dark. He turned himself into a cedar leaf and fell into the chief's dwelling.
Raven, as the cedar leaf, fluttered into a drink that the chief's daughter was drinking. She unwittingly swallowed raven down with a gulp of her drink. She immediately became pregnant and gave birth. Her baby had hair as black as a raven's, dark glowing eyes, and an awfully short temper. If the baby was bored, it would shriek. The chief ordered that the baby was to receive anything it wanted. One gift the baby got was a bag of shining stars. It liked the stars very much, until it accidentally threw them up through the smoke hole in the ceiling. The stars then scattered across the sky.
The baby grew bored yet again. It gave out more violent shrieks. It finally received a bag containing the Moon, and played with it happily. It remained pacified with the Moon until the Moon bounced out of the dwelling through the smoke hole.
The baby was angrier than it had ever been. Everyone searched desperately for anything to occupy the screaming child. All the gifts it received were rejected, as it pointed to the bag with the sun in it. The household finally gave the baby what it wanted, but did it reluctantly. But instead of opening the bag, the baby turned back into Raven, who flew through the smoke hole with the bag of light in his beak.. This was how Raven stole the Sun. Raven spread the light of the Sun throughout the world.

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